Advantages: very sensative Disadvantages: slightly stiff sole
...What can you say about the most popular climbing shoe of all time?
This has become the most classic FiveTen model for sport climbing and bouldering. Used on countless of the worlds hardest sends this asymetrical, sensative and powerful shoe performs well on edging, smearing and in pockets. The new heel design has both deepened it and strengthed where the heel meets the lining- improving two of its early weak points. The new onyx rubber offers slightly more friction, although not to a substantial degree.
In all, the anasazi is the classic sport climbing she that is still hard to go past in terms of performance and quality.
They are sythetic and lined, but expect them to stretch about a full half size when tightly fitted....
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Advantages: Very Comfortable, great allrounder, velcro closure system Disadvantages: Not the most technical shoe, the dye runs.
...This is more of a follow-up to my review of the standard Red Chili Spirits (http://sports.ciao.co.uk/RedChiliSpiritReview5643275) as I bought these after my lace up Spirits wore out. I found the Lace up shoes to be very comfortable while still offering ample ability, but fancied the quick on/off advantage of the Velcro Spirit.
Here's what the manufacturer has to say about the shoe:
- ImpactZone EVA heel shock absorber
- Velcro triplex tension control
- Easy on and off
- Asymmetric last with comfort fit
- Performance fit heel
- Precision edging
- Graduated midsoles
- Red
- UK sizes 2-12
"Built for bouldering and sport, both inside and outside, but with enough power for towers, the Spirit Velcro ImpactZone targets a wide range of fun. For quick on and offs, technical ups and jump-offs, the convenience...
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Advantages: Very agressive and down-turned Disadvantages: Sometimes has deadspace in the heel for some people
...This is FiveTen's most agressive and technical slipper and is very popular among both sport climbers and boulderers.
What has made this slipper so popular for steep wall climbing is its combination of a down-turned toe an d very soft midsole; making it sensitive and versatile. Many people are surprised to hear various hard gritstone slabs have been climbed in V10s, considering them designed for steep terrain only. However unlike most other slippers, the sole only stiffens quite close to the contact area. Support, however, is maintained due to its tight closure and very strong slingshot- especially considering the total lack of a midsole!
In all, its hard to find a boulderer that doesn't rate this classic slipper. Anyone looking for sensitivity and power- this is the shoe. However dont buy them if your thinking of climbing...
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16.05.2008
22.04.2007
